Our K2 Option Bypass Headers kit provides a complete set of un-modules for the Elecraft® K2. These devices are ideal for troubleshooting and tinkering since they simplify the task of reconfiguring the K2 to enable operation upon removal of their associated option. But more importantly, they also make it possible to build a new K2 that’s “Option Ready” from the outset; when used in conjunction with our rework-free K2 assembly method.
4 June 2012 – The last of the required components to package the kits are due to arrive today. Tomorrow Ken will begin processing and shipping orders in the sequence they were submitted.
29 May 2012 – The PCBs have left manufacturing and gone to shipping more than a week ahead of schedule! If they don’t actually ship today, they’ll most certainly go out by tomorrow.
9 May 2012 – PCB production is underway. Kitting should occur in mid-June, culminating with deliveries in late-June.
Frequently Asked Questions
Even without our option bypass headers, you can still install P6 (Aux RF) and P3 (Aux 12V) on the RF board, and the nine KSB2 supplied front panel parts during the initial build. By doing this, the subsequent installation of the KSB2 and either the KAT2 or KPA100 (top-cover) options won’t require the significant disassembly of the enclosure that would otherwise be necessary.
Other than that, in the absence of our option bypass headers we suggest that you follow Elecraft’s traditional assembly instructions. That said, we feel we need to directly address the fact that some “experienced” builders have mentioned using jumper wires and capacitors in place of most of our headers. Beyond being more tedious to install, there are two “Reliability” related reasons why we discourage the use of these ad hoc devices: 1) the possibility of galvanic (dissimilar metal) corrosion on the internal contacts of the K2’s gold-plated connectors; and 2) the possibility of damage resulting from mistakenly inserting a jumper wire in the wrong place, and then transmitting. In the absence of our Headers kit, we believe the liabilities resulting from these issues, offset the benefits of our assembly method. Especially for long-term use, and especially for builders who are new to electronics and/or who might have difficulty fabricating and properly using these devices.
Regarding the “comparatively” elaborate 150 Ohm, 5 dB attenuator circuit on the Noise Blanker un-module … over the years at least two K2 owners have mentioned on the Reflector, that “temporarily” they just used a jumper wire instead! Although in hindsight, a 90 Ohm resistor might have been a better choice? Either way, this type of “NB Bypass” hack is not appropriate for permanent or extended use.
First, you may wish to review …
|Rework Eliminator(TM) K2 Option Bypass Headers Kit|
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|Bare K2 Option Bypass Headers PCB|
* The applicable shipping and handling (S&H) charge for your QTH will be added to your invoice at checkout. 8.625% state sales tax will also be added (for New York residents).
3 May 2012 – The photos of the assembled Headers kit – both on our website and in our PDF instructions – show the 4.7 pF cap on the UN-K60XV header “standing” upright. In contrast, the 3 May 2012 version of the Headers kit Quick Start Instruction Sheet (QSIS) suggests that this cap should be installed tilted more than 45 degrees from vertical. Please follow the instructions in the QSIS when installing this cap and position it tilted sufficiently that it extends no higher off the board than the height of the insulating body of P15.
Even standing vertically, the cap will still easily clear nearby K2 components when the UN-K60XV header is install. The only concern is that the cap could be damaged when the UN-K60XV header is not installed in your K2, but is instead parked/stored on the “Foam Home” that’s included with the kit.
If you’ve not yet assembled your headers kit, just follow the instructions in the latest QSIS. If you already built the kit, do not attempt to tilt the cap once it has been soldered in place, since doing so could damage/crack the meniscus on its leads. Instead, make a suitable indentation/hole in the foam immediately below where the cap will reside. Then just be sure to always position the UN-K60XV board on the foam, such that the cap is directly over this location. (You might find it helpful to draw an outline of the board in this position, with a permanent marker.)